This morning I hinted that I was working on something very exciting, and I can now reveal that I have spent the long weekend trying to perfect the Sorbetto.
FBA on the original pattern
I had already made a couple of Sorbettos last summer, but the fit never felt right. I assumed it was because I’m not used to wearing woven tops (RTW woven tops = nightmare fitting problems) but I had a niggling feeling that I should be able to move my arms.
I tried on the existing tops to work out what was good about them and what needed changing, then I made a muslin (using actual muslin for once). I did lots of pin-fitting, pinning out any weird bubbles and wrinkles, taking it in at the sides so I had a bit of a waist.
Adjusting my muslin and marking changes
As you can see above, I pinned out some baggyness in the back, then looked it up in Fit for Real People and discovered that I need a sway-back adjustment (or a normal-back-big-bum adjustment). I used the Sew Weekly sleeve pattern, but slashed and spread it to make a floatier sleeve, before making it in this purple floral poly-crepe (from Fabrics Galore last week).
Fitted Sorbetto (worn with me-made jeans)
I think the neckline was a tad too wide, causing it to keep slipping off my shoulders, so I added a tiny pleat in the centre front to pull it in, although this nearly undid the good work I did on the FBA.
There is another version 2/3 of the way to completion (I though 11pm was probably too late to use the sewing machine, but everything is pinned and ready to sew up) and a couple more fabric choices planned. I am slightly concerned that getting a comfy fit for this pattern now opens up my fabric buying options – hello pretty printed cottons!
I have made so many changes that I’m not sure if it is still a Sorbetto – how many modifications do you have to make before something stops being the original pattern and starts being a self-drafted pattern?