Anna Dress FBA – changing the gathers to flatter a fuller bust

I am so glad you liked my FBA tutorial for the Anna dress 🙂 (And I am glad you realised how much effort it was; I took photos as I went along, but it wasn’t until I was editting them that I realised how many steps there were!)

I have sewn my bodice muslin (well in a cheap fabric that I will use for first wearable test version) and realised the gathers I have are a bit too big to be flattering. Do you remember my Cambie dresses? I had the same problem there; with a full bust, the size of darts/gathers is big, so the darts begin to make a pointy corner. And how did I solve that problem? I changed the darts from one to three, so each dart was slightly smaller and less pointy!

Here is a quick diagram to show the extremely scientific method I used to adjust the gathers on my Anna (after unpicking the first set). Following my FBA tutorial, work your way to step 20, and stop there.

Anna FBA part 3

Changing gathers is easier than changing darts, as you don’t have to worry about the pointy dart ends. For my measurements I narrowed each pleat by about an inch (technically it was a thumbnail length). I then created a new pleat in between (green lines), making sure it was the same size as the amount I removed (2 red lines below). This gave me 3 approximately equal pleats, but you could measure them and do some maths (if you haven’t spent all day teaching 4 year olds how to sit quietly! this method is good enough for me!)

pleatsAnd here is how the pleats now look in real life:
pleat

Dodgy camera-phone shots in the mirror, but I think you can see the effect. I have pinned and re-sewn the pleats more than my fabric could cope with, so I need to cut out a new bodice before I can carry on with the sewalong. Who else is sewing along? How is it going?

 

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4 thoughts on “Anna Dress FBA – changing the gathers to flatter a fuller bust

  1. This is so helpful! I’m not currently sewing the Anna, but when I do, I will use this tip. This exact problem is what foiled my first attempt at sewing a dress almost 2 years ago. I was using Simplicity 2660, which has two pleats under the bust, and it ended up giving my bust a very unflattering silhouette. I thought it was just my muslin fabric being too stiff, so I sewed it up in my fashion fabric, and nope, still horrible. It never occurred to me turn the two large pleats into several smaller pleats – I just thought the pattern was no good. Thank you for posting this!

  2. Pingback: Ambivalent about Anna | Another Little Crafty Creation

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